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Hyperpigmentation, acne scars and a whole lot of ugly blemishes ruining the look and feel of your skin? Chemical peels are great ways to resurface skin and get it looking new, fresh and haute. Thankfully, modern day peels have evolved to also treat darker skin tones without causing damage. Know which peels are safe for your brown skin before dropping dollars on this beauty treatment.
Madelic Acid
Peels were originally developed with Caucasian skin in mind, which has a lower amount of melanocyte cells and therefore "can be safely peeled without causing dark spots," explains paramedical esthetician Jennifer Charm. "Darker skin does better with gentler peeling agents and I always use a melanin suppressant on the face before applying a peel." Charm recommends mandelic acid as the best peel for darker toned skin, used alone or mixed with arginine, hydrogen peroxide pastes and other BHAs. This peel, derived from bitter almond, causes less peeling, less photosensitivity and less chance of hyperpigmentation than glycolic or salicylic acids. For at home topicals, Charm suggests lightening ingredients such as Vitamin C, licorice, or bearberry that work well.
Glycolics, Microdermabrasion and AHAs
Sarah Kurn, master esthetician and owner of Sarah Kurn Skincare in Minnesota advises that if you are considering a peel, make sure that you are having one done by a well-trained professional who understands darker skin tones and has worked with Fitzpatrick skin color types four and five. Otherwise, you can risk scarring, hyper-pigmentation and burning on the skin. For darker skin, Kurn recommends glycolic acid to soften, lighten and sanitize; microdermabrasion that does not break the tissue; and alpha hydroxy acid blended peels.
Salicylic Acid
Dr. Monica Halem, a dermatologic surgeon at ColumbiaDoctors Eastside in New York says that salicylic acid or peels are safest and best for darker skin types. "These chemical peels vary in acidity and can be light, medium or deep depending on your particular skin type," Halem explains. According to Halem, salicylic acid peels can increase collagen, give you a nice glow, remove dead skin and can be done in 15 minutes during your lunch time! But there are some necessary precautions and post care follow up. "It is very important that SPF be used before and after peels and you should always consult with a dermatologist before trying any of these," advises Halem.
Dermabright Peel
"When treating darker skin types, only certain chemical peel solutions should be used, and with caution. The darker the patient's skin, the more susceptible they are to an inflammatory response from any skin irritation," warns Monika Bolca, medical esthetician at Dr. Ramtin Kassir's Mona Lisa Cosmetic Surgery Centers of New York and New Jersey. "The Dermabright Peel is an excellent choice for correcting pigmentation issues for the darker skinned patient. There is no pain, and little to no irritation during the application, and it is one of the only peels in the cosmetic market today that is safe enough to be used on dark skin."
