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Like full lips and high cheekbones, large eyes are a coveted feature. But if Mother Nature has not blessed you with Audrey Hepburn-size peepers, don’t despair. Dior makeup artist Fredis Velasquez shares his techniques for enhancing small eyelids. By using a few simple eye-popping cosmetic tricks, you can transform your look from diminutive to wide-eyed.
Perfect Your Brows
Start with well-groomed brows, advises Velasquez. “They frame the face and provide definition,” which small eyes lack. Maintain your natural arch to “lift” the eyes, tweeze strays and trim long hairs. Bushy brows overpower small eyes and make them appear even smaller. To create natural definition, shade the brow with a brow pencil—rather than powdered makeup—in a color that matches your hair. Pencils contain wax that holds hair securely in place.
Build a Foundation
Next, hydrate your skin with an eye cream so that makeup adheres properly. Apply an eye primer on your lids, especially if you have oily skin, to ensure that your makeup stays put. Sweep a neutral base color on the lids with a flat, firm brush and “blend, blend, blend—it’s your best friend,” the makeup artist emphasizes. Using a crease brush and medium eye shadow, create a half “c” that runs from the center of the crease to the outer corner of the eye. Apply a highlight color underneath the brow with a loose brush, blending without touching the crease. This deepens the crease and sinks the brow bone, creating definition.
Draw the Line
Eyeliner rubs off easily on smaller lids so opt for a waterproof formula when you begin the third step. There are a number of liner types to choose from, including liquid, cream, gel, pencil and eye shadow. Velasquez says that to get the best results stick to products that you feel comfortable using. Blend liner along the upper and lower lash lines but apply makeup too far into the corner of the eyes and it will close them up. Avoid thick eyeliner or heavy liquid liner because its uniform color does not create definition. For bigger, brighter eyes, line the inner rims of your lower lashes with white kohl pencil.
Complete the look and prevent smudging by applying two to three coats of waterproof mascara. Lengthening and volumizing formulas open the eye area. Allow mascara to dry before using an eyelash curler. To create a natural-looking curl, gently grasp your lashes by their roots, squeezing the curler as you move outward toward the tips. If you prefer to wear false lashes, choose a style that blends naturally into your lash line and is an appropriate shape and length for your eyes.