Photo: Photo by Jim DeYonker
Oh, the little black dress. It’s evolved from an elegant gown donned by women of the roarin' '20s into a garment coupled with the zealous shoulder pads of the 1980s. This long time fashion commodity transcends all trends while maintaining its conventional, uncomplicated appeal. Even now, as we mosey into the sleek and modern 21st century, the LBD still reigns supreme as an indispensable wardrobe must-have. In short, the LBD is the go-to, one stop shop, best friend of a dress that 10 out of 10 women should have hanging in their armoire.
The biggest element of the LBD is that the girl is comfortable, streamlined and chic, and that her personality shines through.
- Erika Stalder, author of "Fashion 101"
From Chanel to Right Now
It was a 1926 issue of Vogue when the fashion world was introduced to the LBD. The high fashion glossy featured a drawing by Erté -- an illustrator whose talents were renowned both then and now. Erté's straight-forward, yet fluid pen strokes depicted one of the newest pieces from Chanel's clothing line, a piece she coined the "little black dress." The magazine touted the garment as the Ford's Model T couture equivalent. It was debonair, black and, just like the 1908 car, attainable.
The Vogue audience was flat-out intrigued. Keep in mind, this was a time when female fashion was synonymous with bells, whistles and a few horns. The shock of a simple, canvas-like dress that showed a little skin was highly alluring to this 1920s crowd.
"For 1926, the dress represented a new direction in women's fashion," explained Kimberly Phipps-Nichol, a fashion designer and historian who strictly uses vintage and organic textiles for her line. "[It was] unfussy, un-corsetted and just below the knee -- all characteristics that were relatively new ideas."
Though far from what we imagine "little" to be today, the dress possessed far less material than the ornate, 20-yards-of-fabric "Gibson Girl" look that preceded it. This new approach toward women's wear was more than a "one day you're in and the next day you’re out." Nope, this little dress was part of something much bigger.
"When women won the right to vote in 1920, a new level of emancipation started entering more than their decision making and workplace opportunities," Phipps-Nichol said. "[Women] were now free to throw off the physical chains that bound them and to use fashion to express themselves more individualistically."
In other words, the LBD represented more than just a fashion trend. It spoke to the power women had begun gaining in the early 20th century. Over the course of the next 100 years, fashion experts and historians would continue watching the little black dress morph and evolve in accordance with historical seasons.
During wars and the Depression era, it adapted to more modest times and was found in simple cuts made from simpler materials. In times of abundance, fashionistas sported LBDs rendered from more luxurious textiles and dared to bare more skin.
Post World War II, perfectly-coifed housewives -- a la June Cleaver -- continued wearing the little black dress, this time a little more suburbia-inspired. And, in the 1980s, the little black dress morphed into something flashier. The dress now flaunted new materials, ultra sexy cuts and was paired with the kind of stiletto heels that make you teeter just looking at them.
And as time marched on, so the LBD marched right along in perfect step. Following the party decade that was the '80s, the dress matured, bringing the garment's general silhouette closer to the one we recognize today. Hemlines lowered, waists became more cinched, and sophistication was ever-mounting.
Today, the LBD has ripened into an essential garment that's as chic as it is versatile; as bold as it is refined. The perfect dress never looks desperate and is universally flattering. Exactly how many pieces do you own that can go from the boardroom to a cocktail party to a wake? That's what we thought.
"It's fresh, easy dressing," said Erika Stalder, author of "Fashion 101." "The biggest element of the LBD is that the girl is comfortable, streamlined and chic, and that her personality shines through."
Finding "The One"
Locating the perfect little black dress for your personal style and body shape does require a smidgen of effort, but don't let that intimidate you. The monumental array of cuts and versions saturating the market should help get the job done.
First, you'll want to consider your frame. Though some cuts work on any shape, others transform your body from nice to va-va-very nice.
"A-line is best on pear-shaped bodies," explained Allison Berlin, an NYC-based stylist who works with clients like Stacy London of What Not to Wear, Oprah and Lucky Magazine.
She continued, "Sheath dresses are great for hourglass bodies, fit and flare halter dresses work with an athletic body, and petite women should choose fitted styles that hit above the knee."
Plus-sized figures look smashing in an LBD that defines the waistline, so go for a classic wrap dress that ties in the middle and accents the collar bone. If you're feeling a little frisky, you could even go for a little black dress that hints at that gorgeous cleavage of yours.
And, should you be concerned about any body "flaws," have no fear. From wobbly arms to bumps and bulge, the little black dress has got you covered. First of all, the monochromatic dark color works as a glorious, magical slimmer. Not to mention, you can choose a cut that conceals any problem areas weighing on your mind.
Jené Luciani, author of The Bra Book and regular on The Today Show, Style Network and Cosmopolitan, agrees.
"The LBD is the perfect dress to solve a multitude of body flaws," she told us with enthusiasm.
Take, for example, the notorious upper-arm wobble -- aka "batwings." For that all-too-common (and downright stubborn) trouble spot, Luciani suggests choosing an LBD with three-quarter-length sleeves.
"If your little black dress doesn't have sleeves," she continued, "adding a little cardi or cropped jacket will do the trick."
For belly bulge, pick out a dress that has ruching or ruffles across the tummy. This works as a camouflage mechanism and is cute, to boot. For those searching high and low for a general solve-all, look no further than an investment in the corset's more comfortable descendent: Spanx.
"[Undergarments] will suck in and smooth any bulges underneath the LBD," Luciani said, who also urges you to wear a properly fitting bra. Wearing the right one will send unsightly back bulge on a permanent vacation.
Making It Work
Once you've claimed and purchased the LBD made just for you, know this: that chic little garment will get plenty of mileage. Being able to dress it up, dress it down and keep it ultra current are just some of the many joys this fabulous wardrobe classic bestows upon its owner.
Dressing the garment up is a guaranteed cinch. Try channeling a modern Audrey Hepburn, whose appearance as Holly Go Lightly in 1961's “Breakfast at Tiffany's” is one of the most famous LBD's recognized today. Pair your dress with a set of sexy heels (both stiletto and kitten work), a sleek updo and lavish accessories. Feeling ultra refined? A pearl necklace equals insta-sophistication. In the mood for a bit of funk? Add a splash of color via a playful pair of patent leather pumps or adorn your wrist with a rescued vintage find.
Easy enough, right? We promise that dressing your LBD down is as equally uncomplicated.
"By throwing a cashmere cardigan sweater over the shoulders, wearing black opaque hose -- or none -- and ballerina flats...you have a fairly dressed-down look," suggested Sherrie Mathieson, a TV and film costume designer and author of “Forever Cool” and “Steal This Style.”
Alternatively, Mathieson suggests carrying a large, neutral-toned tote, wearing your hair in a neat pony tail or sporting an oversized men's watch. Another super simple way to snazzy up this staple is to throw on some chunky wedges, a leather or denim jacket and a pair of hoop earrings.
As for keeping your LBD current, Luciani suggests adding of-the-moment accessories, like a leopard faux fur topper, patterned sheer leggings or the season's hottest shoes. Our experts also recommend changing out your dress once every few years. After all, you want to look chic in a little black dress, not frumpy in a little faded black dress.
And don’t forget: the LBD truly is the blue jean of dresses. Believe us, it's not going anywhere any time soon.
