Photo: John Sciulli/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images
Just about every season, something old is new again, and this fall it comes in the form of the mid-calf skirt. Some call it a nod to '50s fashion, brought on by the popularity of retro TV shows like "Mad Men," while others say dropping hemlines are connected to a weak economy. One thing's for sure, when it comes to the mid-calf skirt, you have to get it right.
I'd suggest you channel your inner Ava Gardner or Faye Dunaway if you want to pull this look off without popping a stitch.
- Felix Mercado, stylist and host of NYC Media's series "Sidewalk Makeovers With Felix."
Midi Style Doesn't Fit All
Celebrities Sarah Jessica Parker and Alexa Chung have been spotted wearing the new mid-calf skirts recently. However, stylists warn that the in-between length of the skirt can make it a tricky piece to pull off for the average body type.
"I'm sure most fashionistas would agree with me that this skirt length is the most unflattering length next to hot pants on Amy Winehouse and a micro-mini on Paris Hilton," said Felix Mercado, stylist and host of NYC Media's series "Sidewalk Makeovers With Felix."
Style expert and author Jene' Luciani agrees. "The mid-calf skirt is tough. Sarah Jessica Parker could wear it because she chose a slim version and she is very thin. Alexa chose a more billowy version, but again, she's thinner than most," she said. "Most women want the illusion of longer legs, not shorter."
Both stylists agree that the mid-calf skirt, or the "midi" as Mercado calls it, works best on taller figures.
"If you're short, stay the heck away from this length as it will make you look shorter and stumpy. And if you're tall and narrow with a rectangle shape, make sure you cinch in the waist area. The idea is to create an hourglass shape," Mercado said.
However, with a few careful styling maneuvers, some women can wear the style with flair.
"As long as you have thin ankles and wear pointy shoes, that'll help to not 'stump' the legs so much," Luciani said.
The key, Mercado says, is to find the silhouette that best complements your body and accessorize it properly. "I'd suggest you channel your inner Ava Gardner or Faye Dunaway if you want to pull this look off without popping a stitch. Or you could end up on my worst dressed list," he said.
Make It Work
For a slimming look, try a pencil skirt in tweed, says Luciani, who can regularly be seen dishing out fashion advice on the "Today" show and The Style Network. The pencil skirt also can be worn in a wrap or basic style, adds Mercado.
Add a cami or blazer to transition the pencil skirt into a work-appropriate style. "Then just peel off the blazer and add big earrings for after hours," Luciani said. "Just be sure to wear pointy pumps to elongate the leg. Plus, they look sexy."
For a trumpet-style, Mercado suggests a skirt that cinches in at the waist area. "Make sure the skirt is flattering around the hips and thighs, narrow at the knees and has a subtle flare around the calves," he said.
For a fuller skirt, take the flowery peasant styles from summer and transition them into fall with cardigans and chunky shoes, says Luciani.
When it comes to the mid-calf skirt, Mercado says, it's all about the silhouette, shoe and balance of proportions. "You want the shoe to be high and sexy, but no T-straps please! It's bad enough this length cuts you off at a bad spot, to add insult to injury with another cut off could land you in the fashion slammer so harsh, you'll wish I didn't catch you red-handed," he said. And he advises choosing your skirt carefully: "A-line or full skirts are dangerous."
If the look still doesn't work, just skip it all together. "Most women want the illusion of longer legs, not shorter. So everyone else [besides those who can wear a mid-calf skirt] should either stick to a maxi that hits at the top of the shoe or a mini that hits just above the knee," Luciani said.
Why It Works
While it's a challenging style, the midi skirt does have redeeming qualities that make it a fashion staple this season.
"The mid-calf skirt is a nod to '50s fashion and re-emerged after the maxi trend took over," Luciani said. "And they're great for fall with pleats or billowing in a swingy style, away from the body, particularly in fabrics like corduroy."
The midi also can serve as a great conservative style, Mercado says. "The truth is, while I'm not a fan of it, this skirt is great for women over 40 who like the mature look of a longer skirt so they can hide their aging knees, but still want to feel sexy in the trumpet or pencil-fit silhouette. But again, this length isn't for everyone, so proceed with caution."
