Overview
Edgy haircuts for short hair were the keys to Eli Mancha’s victory as the 2011 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) Hairstylist of the Year, where he combined futuristic spins on classic styles with models outfitted like robots. Mancha hand-selected a trio of his winning looks and gives the secret tips and tools you’ll need to do it yourself at home, plus what to ask your stylist for to get the right cut.
Disconnected Chunky Skater Sweep
Celebrities such as Pink and Rhianna have both worn their tresses in this short, layered style, with a shaved base to give the appearance of disconnection between the top and bottom portions of the hair. To get this separation, Mancha says to have your stylist shave the sides and underside of your hair down, leaving the interior section longer to hang over the short sides. Apply a heat-resistant styling cream, then blow dry the hair as you tousle it. Flat iron large sections of your hair toward your face, in the direction of the desired swoop. Styling products will help achieve this ‘do. Use hairspray before ironing to help hold the finish and add texture. After flat ironing, mold your sections with a finishing clay or matte putty for hold and separation.
Modern Classic Pompadour
This shaved-side look was often rocked by Rhianna. Mancha says to ask your stylist for a short, textured cut that’s longer on the top than on the sides, then the trick to this look is all in the styling. To create the necessary body and bend at the ends of your hair, apply mousse to damp hair and set it in large rollers until dry. As an alternative to rollers, Mancha says blow-drying with a round brush or using a large barrel curling iron works too. Gather your hair forward, twisting the ends to merge all the pieces together while applying hairspray. With your hands, brush the front back, working it into a pompadour shape. Pull the sides of the hair down and forward, making them flat. A dab of pomade or wax on your fingers will give good shine and separation. “Shaving and lightening underneath modified this classic shape into a futuristic look,” he says.
Carved Pixie
The updated spin on the pixie look has been sported by Natalie Portman and Emma Watson. Mancha says the hair for this look is extremely short, no longer than 2 inches on top, and the sides and back should be even shorter so your stylist can line up and carve out structured details. After you completely dry the hair, just a touch of styling clay or putty is all you need to show off the hair’s texture. Apply from back to front, working from root to tip for even distribution. Use your fingertips to pull down any areas sticking out of place, then finish with a spritz of hairspray to hold everything in place.
Color Considerations
Mancha pumped up the volume on the edginess of each look with color. “This popular 90s skater look was updated in my collection by breaking up the interior with chunky layers, and tipping off the ends with blue and black feathered color,” Mancha explains. If you can get away with it, experiment with a platinum blond, ruby wine, grape or electric blue color to complement your cut.
